张家宁 济南外国语学校

　　夏季，随着学生暑假到来，电视吸引了无数孩子们的眼球，各种题材的电视剧轮番轰炸于孩子的视线之内。古装宫廷斗剧《延禧攻略》成了备受大家关注的热门剧。这部剧是一部以令妃的逐步上位为主线的满清宫斗剧。其实仔细研究戏剧中古代生活，与当今的生活很相似，只是时代不同而已。该剧中不仅情节引人入胜，我认为尤其出彩的是唯美的服饰和色彩的设计，剧中完美的置景和服饰设计，结合非遗收工艺人的巧手匠心，展示了中国传统文化的博大精深，将电视剧推向一个新的高度。现代年轻女性很多都喜欢古典文化，比如传统的中国服装，现在市面、街头，穿旗袍、汉服的越来越多。虽然传统文化越来越受欢迎，但在科技飞速发展的现代社会中，人们仍然担心它未来的发展。毕竟，当今社会审美和认知与百年、千年前相去甚远，虽然古典的精华被点滴拾起和运用，但时尚、现代、简约仍是现代服饰设计的主流，一些无形的限制仍然阻碍着它的发扬与光大。

　　随着越来越多的人对中国传统文化感兴趣，我们的团队同样想进一步探索传统文化中中国服饰的发展变化。因此，我们的目标锁定于最受年轻女性(16-26岁)关注的传统文化对他们的穿衣风格的影响。对于这个主题，我们在微博上向不同地区分发调查问卷。最近兴起国风热潮，大部分人对传统文化表现出极高的兴趣，但这些文化背后的深刻含义，似乎并没有被公众广泛理解。根据我们的问卷数据，200名被测试女性中，了解中国元素服饰细节的年轻女性比例为45.5%，而喜欢中国元素服饰的被测试女性比例为89.5%。只有一小部分人有学习这种文化的愿望，喜欢加入相关的协会，阅读相关的书籍和文件。在日常生活中，选择中国传统服饰的年轻女性仅占33%，接受传统服饰的占52.5%。说到“中国风”，大多数人可能会想到中国传统服装，然后考虑古代诗歌、历史、音乐和建筑。在二百多个参与人中，只有百分之八十的人认为中国风在将来会有一个不错的发展，在被问及认为哪些是制约中国风文化发展的原因时，大多数参与人认为，人们缺乏学习中国风文化的兴趣占很大一部分因素。对很多人来说，衣服是昂贵而复杂的，这也是人们在日常生活中愿意戴小头饰而不愿意穿传统服装的原因。传统文化在当今社会弘扬与传承并不尽如人意，当人们提到中国传统文化时，大多数年轻人会想到歌曲或电视节目，这群人对中国的传统文化其实只有一些肤浅的了解。现在，年轻人沉迷于流行文化，比如娱乐节目，流行音乐等等，年轻人在谈论他们最喜欢的电影明星或歌手。学生在学校只学习一点中国传统的知识，因为大多数时间他们有很多关于他们专业的课程，课后，他们需要做大量的作业，就像论文、项目或其他作业一样。老实说，他们没有其他时间去学习与专业不同的知识，教授们还认为，学校最重要的任务是顺利通过考试，大多数学生忙于准备考试，参加考试……就像一个循环，时间是最重要的因素之一。随着古风在年轻人中的流行，可喜的是很多服装品牌的设计师开始进行古风的设计，或者运用古风的元素来提升中国品牌的认知度。李宁，一个新的流行品牌，很好地利用了中国古代元素，在年轻人中很受欢迎。与日本和韩国风格相比，中国风格还没有成为一种实用的元素完全用于现代日常服装中。李宁公司将中国元素淋漓尽致的运用到其产品设计中，结合当今流行的风格元素，形成了一种新的国产运动风。在怀旧字体和复古情怀的帮助下，公众也有很高的认可度。随着现代化的进步，现代服装中融合古典元素也越来越多，如衣服上的古风刺绣和一些小仿古设计，但真正讲究的“汉服”还是贵的，大约1000 - 2000元。调查显示，大学生会古装打扮最直接的联系方式是通过图片、电视节目、电视剧等媒体手段，45.5%的人表示他们知道一些元素是用来点缀衣服的。通过调查,很多大学生说只知道是古装打扮,但服装属于什么王朝,古代什么时期，以及服装适合什么样的身份和场合,都说不知道,也是当代大学生普遍浮躁，主要是他们不感兴趣。例如，许多大学生的新诗或改编的古诗，只是一堆没有任何研究和内涵的古代语言的堆砌。真正的问题在于文学造诣不够，内涵、知识积累还不够，当代年轻人对古装的认识是浅显的，因为他们只是停留在表面的喜好上，而不是隐藏于古装背后的文化。从我们的调查问卷数据可以看出，大多数人认为，中国刺绣业发展缓慢的原因在于缺少学习此种文化热情的人。那些只知道穿精致古装，听优雅古风歌曲的浮躁的年轻人，还有那些沉迷于骑士精神、游戏、小说并且每天可能都生活在一片混乱中的年轻人，他们只是一时的追风喜好，这与潜心研究传统文化并融入其中的人差之千里。阅读经典书籍可以丰富一个人的知识，当人们真正了解历史的时候，他们将真正了解中国的传统文化。我们应该改变价值观，读大量的经典著作书籍或古典诗歌，把优良传统融会贯通，融入生活，在精神、思想上与优秀的古人交流，将历史文化学以致用，做到自律、自省、自警、自励。古人喜欢喝茶、下棋、押韵、研究，现在的我们喜欢旗袍、汉服、刺绣......,任何对传统文化感兴趣都是促进中国传统文化发展的良好开端，中国的传统文化是古代智慧人们留下的宝贵财富，中国传统文化成为社会潮流也是未来发展的坚定方向。

　　Buo Huang曾经说“忘记过去是一种背叛”，坦率地说，继承与发展是相辅相成的，我们正在实现未来的梦想，目标是一步一步来的，历史的痕迹是我们一步一步走过的，我们应该珍惜淘尽千年保留至今的文化精华。中国有五千年的历史，五千年的文明是先人留给我们的宝贵财富。珍惜过去，开创未来是我们当代年轻人的责任和义不容辞的担当！

　　Effects the prevalence brought by national convention have on younger women's dressing code

　　Jianing Zhang 

　　Jinan Foreign Language School 

　　As the coming of summer vacation, a proliferating number of historical period dramas were showing on the television. One of the famous dramas called “Story of Yanxi Palace” attracted people’s attention. This drama actually is similar to the ancient life and each charter has delicacy costumes and exquisite ornament. At the same time,some modern young females are fond of classic culture such as traditional Chinese clothing. Although the traditional culture become more and more popular, people still worried about the development of it in the future. After all, some limitations still impede it.

　　As people are more and more interested in Chinese traditional culture, our group also wants to explore more about that phenomenon. Thus, we aim at one of the most concerned by young females (ages 16-26) about the influence of traditional culture on the dressing style for them. For this topic, we spread a questionnaire in different areas. From www.weibo.com It is because of the recent custom rush; most percentage of the crowd emerges its interest in National Conventions. As for the profound meanings behind these customs, they are seemingly not widely comprehended by the public. According to the data from our questionnaires, the proportion of young females who know the details related to clothing with Chinese elements is 45.5 percent in 200 subjects, but the proportion of subjects who are fond of these kinds of clothing and headgear reached 89.5%. There is only a small amount of people who have the desire to learn this culture, like joining relevant associations and reading related books and documents. When comes to their everyday general purpose, young females who choose Chinese traditional costumes are only 33%, and there are 52.5% subjects who accept traditional headgears in daily life. Speaking of ‘Chinoiserie’, most of people may think of Chinese traditional costume. Then ancient poetry, history, music and architectures are considered. Approximately 80% of 200 subjects have the positive prospects for the popularity of Chinese style. As for the factors which restrict the development of Chinoiserie culture, majority of subjects think that the lack of people who have the interest to learn this culture may influence largely. Clothes with Chinese style are expensive and complex for numbers of people, compared with headgears, and it is the reason why people are willing to wear small headgears in daily life rather than wear traditional dresses. Why classic culture cannot hand down in the society? Firstly, when people mention Chinese traditional culture, most of the young people would think of songs or TV shows. This group of people actually have some superficial understanding of Chinese traditional culture, which means not too much people have a deeply understanding of Chinese traditional culture. Nowadays, young people are addicted to pop culture such as entertainment programs, pop music and so on. Young people are talking about their favorite movie star or singer. Students just study a little bit knowledge about Chinese traditional in school, because most of the time they have lots of classes about their major. After their classes, they need to do a huge number of assignments just like paper, project or others. To be honest, they don’t have other time to study knowledge that is different from their major. Also professors propose that the vital task in the school is passing the exam successfully, most of the students are busy preparing for the exams, doing exams… Just like a cycle. Time is one of the most important element. Secondly, with the popularity of ancient style among young people, many designers in the clothing brands also have started to carry out the design of ancient style, or they use the elements of ancient style to enhance the awareness of Chinese brands. Li Ning, a new popular brand, has made good use of ancient Chinese elements and gained great popularity among young people. Compared with the Japanese and Korean styles, the Chinese style has not become a practical and almost completely used in modern daily clothing. Li Ning has applied the words "buying" and "rekindle" in Chinese culture to design its. Combining current popular style elements and the element of motherland, ancient style element, formed a kind of new homebred movement wind. It is not difficult to design and create with the help of nostalgic font and feelings of restoring ancient ways. Additionally, it is easy to make and the public also has a high degree of acceptance. In terms of marketing management, it is also relatively easy. Finally, the survey shows that college students would antique dress up the most direct way of contact is through pictures, television programs, by the means of media such as TV plays, 45.5% said they know about some elements that are used to embellish the clothes. Through the investigation, a lot of college students said just because it looks like antique dress up, but for the apparel category belongs to the dynasty, as well as in ancient times when is suitable for a what kind of identity and occasion, and they all said do not know, and also contemporary college students generally more impetuous. For this kind of rare knowledge, they do not have interest. For example, many college students' new poems or adapted ancient, although the reading is catch, it is just a piled archaistic language without any research and connotation. The problem lies in piling up, with insufficient literary attainment, things they see and knowledge they master are not really sufficient. For the reason antique dress up why become a hobby can not only be traditional. To contemporary college students’ understanding of the antique is dressed up, which is not enough. Because they just stay on the surface, not for the ancient dress up learning about the culture behind. With the progress of modernization now, antique dress up more combined with modern urban clothing, such as in the dress embroidered embroidery, in the eyes of many college students those are belong to ancient costumes,and they are affordable. But truly exquisite “HanFu” are expensive, at about 1000-2000 Yuan. This is also why the ancient style dressing for college students will become a hobby, but it is difficult to become a traditional continuation of the reason. Therefore, such situations would lead to the disappear of classic. How dose the Chinese traditional culture become a social trend?The figures from our questionnaire demonstrate that majority of subjects think that the reason why the development of Chinois Erie culture is restricted is the lack of people who have the passion to learn this culture. So how do we generalize the Chinese traditional culture and ancient conventions? Some people who just wear those elaborate ancient costumes and listen to those elegant songs may ignore their rude behaviors. And some who are just obsessed with chivalrous games and fictions might be living in a mess everyday. People may doubt whether they are inheriting traditions correctly. It is essential for lover of traditional culture to devote themselves to study it and blend in this atmosphere instead of showing off themselves.First of all, there is no doubt that reading classic books can enrich one’s knowledge. Actually, when people truly understand the history,they will truly understand the Chinese traditional culture . We should change in values, which means that we should read plenty of classic books or classical poetries. When Chinese have task to do, they will do it as a mission of destiny. And they will persist, even though the critical problem in front of them. These are the effects of Confucianism,Buddhism and Taoism.In addition, our spirit is supposed to close to ancient people, and the most essential word is restraining in privacy. That means when people living alone, they also should be more cautious. The first step of antique resonance is that we need to be an ethics person, and understand the classic history and culture widely.Finally, we should be fond of Chinese traditional culture. The ancients so keen on tea, chess, rhyme and researching. Therefore, what individuals are interested in Chinese traditional culture is a significant part to promote the development of Chinese traditional culture.Chinese traditional culture, means that the ancient people areinfluenced on modern society. It is true that learning about ancient culture can give an elegant ethics. Therefore, refined people are commonly able to stand out from the uproar and vanity.Sometimes humans are rational, but most of time they are emotional.

　　Buo Huang said that “forgetting about the past is a kind of betrayal” with millions of passion in the movie called “The Ghouls”. Frankly, we have to admit that every current achievement of our nation cannot stand without the steps that we walk so far. Because we are achieving our goals step by step, historical traces are carried by us and these should be cherished carefully. It is our gift to have that traditional culture due to the 5000-year-old history of China, why waste it? With retrospect of the past, we should embrace the future, with cherishing what we have Today.